The choice of brush is important if you are to achieve a good result. A high-quality brush has better ergonomics, holds more paint and applies the paint more evenly.

To make it easier to find the "right" quality level, all Mäster brushes are divided into three different categories: Diamond, Superior and Standard. It is important that you choose the right brush for your needs.

1. SAVE TIME

Holds more paint, you don't need to dip the brush in the paint can as often. When painting the facade of a house, you can save up to 40% of your time!

2. CONSISTENT AND SUSTAINABLE

Applying the paint with a better result along the surface and, of course, more attractive.

3. BETTER FOR YOUR BODY

Has better ergonomics. Kinder for your body and you will have a more pleasant painting experience.

These factors make the work easier, faster and more attractive. If you are going to paint a surface that is visible and you have bought expensive paint, it is clearly worth investing in a brush that provides a good result.

Det är viktigt att du väljer rätt pensel för ditt behov. Om du ska lasera behöver du en lasyrpensel som är anpassad för att ta upp och lägga ut just tunna färger. Ska du måla med rödfärg orkar inte en vanlig fasadpensel dra ut färgen, utan du behöver en rödfärgspensel. Av etiketterna på våra penslar framgår vad penseln är till för, för att underlätta för dig att välja rätt.

It is important that you choose the right brush for your needs. If you are going to use glaze, you need a glaze brush that is adapted to absorb and apply thin paints. If you are going to paint with falu red paint, an ordinary facade brush cannot apply the paint sufficiently well, you need a falu red paint brush. The labels on our brushes show what the brush is made for, to make it easier for you to choose the right one for the right job.

THERE ARE THREE TYPES OF BRUSHES

1. Natural Bristle Brushes
2. Synthetic Bristle Brushes

3. Blended Bristle Paint Brushes

NATURAL BRISTLE BRUSHES

Pros: holds a lot of paint lay-off a lot of paint and doesn't drip

Disadvantages: require care, sensitive to wear and tear, often do not provide as smooth results as synthetic bristle brushes.

Origin and quality: Natural bristles come from Chinese pigs. The bristles are hand-picked and differ greatly in quality depending on where the pigs come from, what they eat, what the climate is like, etc. Bristles from pigs that live high above sea level grow slowly and are better resistant to the negative effects of water. One such type of brush is Chungking Best Sichuan. The highest quality grade of natural bristles is 90-tops, which means that 90% of the bristles go all the way to the top. It is easier to find short bristles than long ones, therefore it is more expensive when the brush should contain mostly long bristles.

NATURAL BRISTLE BRUSHES – Appearance & features...

Natural bristles are available in three varieties: black, light or grey. The brush is composed of small barbs, which means that it absorbs a lot of paint. They then don't drip as much and are suitable for even thin paint, such as oil and glaze.

NATURAL BRISTLE BRUSHES – Painting...

Brushes with natural bristles apply thick layers of paint with good coverage. This means that the natural-bristle brush is traditionally the painter's favourite. But natural bristles require care to not absorb too much water, which can mean a loss in elasticity. However, this mainly applies to natural bristles of lower quality.

SYNTHETIC BRISTLE BRUSHES – Features ...

Pros: more durable than natural bristles, easier to clean in water. Provide a smoother result.

Disadvantages: do not absorb as much paint as a natural brush, may drip more.

More brushes contain synthetic bristles. This is because paints are increasingly water-based.

SYNTHETIC BRISTLE BRUSHES – Appearance & construction ...

There are many different types of synthetic bristles. The best types of synthetic bristles are similar to natural bristles, including split ends that retain the paint in the brush. The bristles are hollow to maintain elasticity. The synthetic brushes in our professional series are of higher quality than the synthetic brushes in our quality series.

BLENDED BRISTLE PAINT BRUSHES ...

A blended brush is a combination of synthetic and natural bristles. This type of brush is especially popular for outdoor brushes.

A blended brush combines the good properties of both the natural brush and the synthetic brush. The longest bristles are often synthetic, to give the blended bristle paint brush high durability and resistance.

The natural bristles in a brush with mixed bristles are slightly shorter than the synthetic bristles and are included so that the brush holds more paint. A brush with a mixed bristle can be used for most types of paints and is considered to be an all-round brush.

A roller can be used for most painting jobs. You can often work faster with a roller than with a brush, because the paint is applied faster and more evenly.

In many cases, it is good to first use a roller to apply paint, and then use a brush as a finisher and to help the paint penetrate the surface.

We have rollers for all paint types and surfaces. Important when it comes to choosing a roller is to think about which paint you are using and what result you want.

A roller with a long "fringe" often provides a rough surface result, while one with a short pile provides a fine surface result. When painting a ceiling, you may want a rougher surface result than if it is a kitchen hatch that is being painted. Read on our packaging or here on our website to see what surface result the roller provides and what type of paint it is suitable for.

In general, regarding rollers, you get what you pay for. What makes a cheap roller inferior to a better quality one is that the cheap roller doesn't absorb as much paint when dipped in the trough or the can, and it doesn't distribute the paint as well. Nor does a cheap roller last as long as a good quality roller.

”ULLON” – for ceilings, walls, outdoors, uneven surfaces. Distributes a lot of paint, creates a rough surface.

”PERLON” – all-round roller, perfectly suitable for walls, creates a medium rough surface.

”FINLON” – specially developed for matt wall paints, creates a smooth surface.

FLOOR VARNISH ROLLER – for varnished and oiled floors. Provides a smooth surface.

MATT – for smooth surfaces, good for matt paints (walls/floors). No fluff. Provides a smooth surface.

”MICRON” – provides a very even surface - almost like felt but absorbs more paint. Also very suitable for thinner paints. Good for wall paints/varnishes.

FELT – for varnish painting, when painting e.g. carpentry, doors. etc. Provides a smooth surface.

MOHAIR – for varnish painting, when painting e.g. kitchen doors. Resistant to solvents. Provides a smooth surface.

SUPER FELT – for steel, iron, fiberglass and epoxy work.

FACADE – for facade plaster, unplaned wood and other rough surfaces. No fluff. Perfect for outdoor painting. Provides a rough surface result.

SHEEPSKIN – for silicate paints and facade painting, must not be soaked in water.

STRUCTURE – for structural paints, interior plaster etc.

MOLTOPREN – for varnishes, provides a smooth surface.

Holes, unevenness, and joints should be puttied before painting, so that the result is good and smooth.

– Wall putty (preferably use two, one narrower and one broader, for wall and roof putty)

– Steel trowel

– Japanese putty (for small holes and unevenness).

– Sanding block and sand paper

– Putty (check with your paint dealer which putty to use for your particular project)

1. Pull out all nails and hooks

2. Wash the wall or object to be plastered and painted

3. Apply some putty to the trowel. If you are going to apply a lot of putty, it is practical to have two types of trowels, a narrower one which you use to scrape off leftover putty, and a wider one with which you use to apply the putty to the wall. Do not apply too much putty as then it will easily become uneven.

4. Press putty into the hole to be covered. Spread the putty over the hole so that the surface is even.

5. Remove putty stripes that may appear beside the hole, if there has been an excess of putty.

6. Allow the putty to dry according to the manufacturer's recommendations. You may need to carry out the procedure one more time.

7. Sand with sandpaper so that the surface becomes smooth.

8. Brush off sanding dust and vacuum the entire room thoroughly before you start painting.

Unpainted plasterboard and chipboard need to be puttied.

1. Cover all nail heads.

2. Putty the nail holes.

3. Apply a layer of putty in the joint between the plasterboard or chipboard. Putty from the bottom up.

4. Put a sealing strip in the wet putty and putty over thinly.

5. Let the putty dry.

6. Seal with a final putty application and let dry.

7. Sand if necessary and wipe away the dust.

1. Brush off all loose plaster with a brush or broom.

2. Moisten with water holes and damage that are to be filled with putty

3. Plaster with a wide spatula, first from side to side and then from top to bottom.

1. Vacuum the entire room properly after filling and sanding. If all the dust is not removed, there is a risk that it will show through when the paint is applied.

2. A stable ladder is good to have to do the job well and to make the job more comfortable.

3. Start at the top when you apply putty. If both the ceiling and walls are to be plastered, start with the ceiling. In the same way as when you paint, it is better to prepare the ceiling first, so that you don't risk paint, putty or sanding dust on newly painted walls.

4. It is better to apply several thin layers of filler than one thick layer. Thick layers of putty dry slowly, risk cracking, and become more easily uneven.

5. Use fine-grained sandpaper for best results.

6. Sometimes it is difficult to access with a trowel, then you can use your fingers instead.

7. You can usually easily get your putties clean with water when you're done.

GOOD LUCK!

Cleaning brushes and rollers is not difficult at all. To get a really good and sustainable result, you need quality tools and if you take care of them, you have a tool that works well for a long time.

Mäster has a smart and environmentally friendly roller storage you can use between painting that preserves your roller for at least ONE MONTH. Otherwise, the usual way is to put the brush or roller in a plastic bag and tie or tape it, and it will stay soft for a couple of hours or until the next day.

1. Wipe off as much paint as possible with a cloth or rub the paint against the paint can, and "paint dry" on a newspaper.

2. Place the brush in water (if you have painted with water-based paint), or paint/brush wash (if you have painted with alkyd paint), until the paint has dissolved.

3. Rinse the brush thoroughly with water and soap until it is completely clean.

4. Feel free to lubricate the brush with soap, which can remain during storage. When the brush is to be used next time, the brush must be rinsed out thoroughly.

5. Always store brushes hanging. If they rest on the bristles, they lose their shape.

If you don't have Mäster Roller Storage:

1. Wipe off as much paint as possible from the roller. "Paint dry" on a newspaper. There is a special roller scraper that can be used to remove paint.

2. Rinse in water (if you've painted with water-based paint) or paint/brush wash (if you've painted with alkyd paint), and dip the roller thoroughly into the tray.

3. Then rinse the roller thoroughly with water and soap until it is completely clean.

Paint residues must always be left at an environmental station.

Thank you for considering the environment!